Excellent suit construction: Part 2 - Trousers
In our previous post (Excellent Suit Construction: Part 1 - Jackets) about suit construction, we covered what to look for in a well-made suit jacket. In this second instalment, we're talking about the bottom half—the trousers. Just as influential in the ensemble as the jacket, trousers complete the look and prevent you from being arrested for not wearing pants!
The key to tailored trousers is achieving the best fit for your body shape. They should accentuate your frame and conceal areas that require discretion—we’ll let you use your imagination. It's your tailor's responsibility to measure you accurately and create a garment that gives you free movement and comfort throughout the day. As the jacket is usually removed when seated, the trousers are the most worn piece of the suit. This means that the trousers must perform accordingly; resilient fabric allows for prolonged use and a good cut gives you sufficient room to move. The seat of the trousers should fit comfortably around the buttocks: slight shaping from the waistband gives form while the leg drops straight down to keep it modest.
Trousers should be hemmed to a suitable length—usually a small break in the trousers approaching the base and should fall just on top of your shoes. Anything longer only makes you look shorter, and an intentionally shorter hem is considered more fashion forward and less timeless. A good pair of trousers is always half lined to the knee. This allows them to flow naturally and the lining helps to avoid the trousers from riding up your thighs—always an essential trait.
In terms of how they sit across the waist, trousers should remain flat and mustn’t bunch. A centre crease lengthens the body. Ensure your trousers have a good trouser-hook fastening, but also a secondary button to keep them secure as you move around. And finally, it’s the subtle details that matter. If you know that you’re going to forgo a belt and wear braces instead, request that your tailor creates your trousers without belt loops and instead sews buttons inside. It’s a cleaner look and shows you mean business when it comes to dressing for success.