How good fabric can make a great suit
Tailoring is certainly one of man’s greatest sartorial achievements. The practice of turning a length of fabric into a flawless garment is an art form, particularly when it can trigger an emotional response in both the wearer and observers. While cut is possibly the most important factor when distinguishing a made-to-measure suit from the rest, fabric plays a significant part. Some might argue that it's the starting place when tailoring a suit, and that the rest simply follows. Either way, construction or fabric first, they are essential complements of the other.
Superior cloths are manufactured largely in two regions—Italy and England. Each of these has its own distinct way of milling, the methods of which have been handed down since the Industrial Revolution. We offer both a mixture of British and Italian know-how, with Huddersfield Cloth and Dormeuil from the north, and Ariston and Solbiati from the Mediterranean. Incidentally, cloth manufacturers favour Australian merino wool, which is known for its extraordinary texture and resilience. So what do these intercontinental fabrics mean for you? Quality.
You can always tell a refined suit from the run-of-the-miil, most often at first sight. A good suit shouldn’t glisten in the sun, but rather should have a certain sheen and a luminescence about the fabric. Natural fibres are always best, and even a hint of synthetic is immediately evident in direct sunlight. By opting for tradition and craftsmanship it's an understated way of communicating the quality of the fabric and therefore your appreciation of fine tailoring.
Depending on your requirements, fabric selection can enhance how you experience your suit daily. The weave should be tight but soft to the touch, with each individual thread conveying this through its lustre—a visual realisation of its tactile nature. Beautiful fabric just feels right when it’s the body. It flows with your movement and has a sense of movement even when you’re stationary. And of course there are myriad options depending on the purpose of your suit.
Mohair is an excellent choice as it offers breathability and sharp drape. Mohair fibres are particularly smooth and won’t irritate the skin, and it has the most the most incredible touch. Wool suiting is an excellent allrounder, and there’s a fabric for every season. Heavy wools work well for the winter months, insulating and protecting you from the elements, while lighter wools, cottons and linens are a failsafe choice to look smart, but still keep cool in summer. A premium option, consider finer wools if you're really looking to impress. As you can see, there’s a fabric for all occasions, and choosing the right one is key to a great business suit.