"Before you dive into the process, it’s important to understand the mechanics of what makes a well-fitted suit"
The greatest advantage of wearing a made-to-measure suit is the fit. In suiting, fit is everything and often serves as the difference between a great look and a bad one. However, before you dive into the process, it’s important to understand the mechanics of what makes a well-fitted suit.
While both the trousers and jacket are equal players in this scenario, the jacket is the first piece people will see when you walk into a room. In a meeting, it’s the one part of your suit that stays visible at all times. Therefore, it needs to fit perfectly.
The shoulder of your jacket should lie even over your actual shoulders. The best way to determine the correct fit is to check the seam. If your jacket is just right, the seam will lie perfectly even with your shoulder with no deformities. If your jacket is too tight, the shoulder will feel constricted and a jacket that’s too large will leave your shoulder swimming in fabric. The cloth will wrinkle easily from the resulting bunching.
Additionally, the closure should be just right. When you button your jacket, it should rest comfortably on your torso while accentuating your physique. If it’s too big, the jacket will look bulky while an undersized jacket will pull at the buttons and leave your torso constricted.
In terms of length, the jacket itself should give you minimum coverage. The bottom hem shouldn’t come anywhere near your thighs or hover around your beltline. It should fall in the sweet spot below your waist and just on top of your behind. The tailoring of your sleeves should be subtle, allowing just a hint of your shirt cuff to peek out. Your wrist bone shouldn’t be visible nor should the sleeve fabric reach the middle of your hand.
The seat of your trousers should fall smoothly over your rear. When they’re too small, the fabric tends to pull and wrap tightly around your thighs. When they’re too loose, excess fabric tends to hang around your thighs, creating a sloppy aesthetic.
Of signicant importance is also the break. The perfect break in your trousers will have your leg opening resting gently on top of your shoes. If your socks are visible (unless you're deliberately going for that look) or several centimetres of fabric are bunched on your shoe, your fit should be adjusted.
The Oscar Hunt Fit
At Oscar Hunt, we focus on a perfect made-to-measure fit that finds the balance between function and elegance. The proportions will fit your body perfectly. Our suiting isn’t too slim or too boxy—it’s just right. You, and everyone else, will know your suit is made-to-measure just by looking at it. Though it’s important to understand the basics of a well-fitted suit, you won’t need to worry about it. Oscar Hunt delivers the perfect aesthetic with every creation.