Why the trouser balance is important (with Head Tailor Oscar Lake)

02 November 2016

Why the trouser balance is important (with Head Tailor Oscar Lake)

Unlike jackets that contain interlinings, multiple layers of canvas and shoulder pads, trousers are a more complicated garment if perfection is what you are aiming for. Trousers rely not on structure or padding to achieve symmetry and smoothness but almost entirely on gravity. The balance in a trouser is achieved by changing the angle of the waistband. Some men naturally stand with their pelvis tilted quite far forward while others stand with a backward tilt, creating a look of the waistband being almost parallel to the ground. The front and back panels hang from the waistband without any structure so analysing the angle of a client’s pelvis rotation and making adjustments to the length of the front and back panels to accommodate for a natural stance is incredibly important in achieving a comfortable and clean looking trouser.

Imagine holding up a bed sheet in two hands with the hands at the same height. The fabric will fall straight down to the ground. If one hand is lowered, the fabric wrinkles and folds on one side of the sheet while the other will remain straight. The fabric is no longer in balance. If, however (keeping one hand lower than the other), the top line of the sheet were angled downwards, then once again the fabric would drape straight down without folds. The fabric would be considered balanced.

Using this simple example you can see why the balance is exceptionally important in the construction of a crisply finished trouser.