Tailoring for your body type
Fit & Construction
One of the many advantages of made-to-measure suiting is that you’re able to
Beyond getting a suit that fits, one of the other benefits of made-to-measure is that you can
For the vertically challenged, the rule
In a similar vein, avoid patterns like windowpane checks that break up your body visually, block colours are preferable as they’ll
As for shirting, the key thing is to ensure your sleeves are the correct length. The cuff should ideally sit on the boney part of your wrist, peaking out from your jacket sleeve by 1-2 cm.
Focus on trousers that have a minimal break at the front as this can make it look like they’re too long and
Suiting is a universal struggle for taller chaps - particularly if you’re buying off the rack.
A jacket that is too short has the unfortunate effect of making it look like you have hunched shoulders or, worse still, that the suit is just too small. At Oscar Hunt, we advise against more cropped jacket styles in favour of jackets that finish at the base of your glutes. Any shorter than this and it’ll throw out your silhouette.
Also consider how your jacket and shirt fit around your torso. If you have a straight-up-and-down kind of body, use tailoring elements like wider lapels to break up the silhouette and create the illusion of broader shoulders and a smaller waist.
Ensure that any finishing touches
As a taller gentleman, the key thing to remember with trousers is ensuring that they don’t look too short. A neat hem with a single break at the front looks timeless and will ensure that your suit is proportionate.
If you’re looking to experiment with a slightly bolder silhouette, you can also play with elements like the rise of your trousers. A high-waist is flattering for anyone with an average to long torso as it elongates the leg and makes for a smaller looking waist line.
For those with a slim build, suiting
Opt for a jacket that skims your frame without gripping. Choosing a style with wider lapels or even a bolder pattern will also help in creating the illusion of a broader chest and shoulders. Steer clear of softer tailoring and instead go for more traditional styles, putting particular focus on roped shoulders - these further help in creating the appearance of a broader frame and give the jacket a greater sense of structure.
In a similar vein, it’s best to steer clear of super slim shirting as this will only further
With trousers, choose a slim style that fits nearly around the glutes and waist. In particular, you want to avoid skinny trousers that can make you look
Adding a single pleat at the front of your trousers can also
For those with a wider frame, it pays to avoid overly tailored suiting.
When it gets down to the specifics of jackets, opt for a two-button style. This is slimming, particularly in darker colours like navy or charcoal. Conversely, you’ll want to
With shirting, stick with classic or regular cuts - slim styles can pull around the buttons, particularly when you’re sitting. Even if the shirt fits well when standing, this will make it look as if it’s too small.
Classic or tapered trousers with a single break at the front can
Particularly as gentlemen age, weight can
To create the illusion of a broader chest and shoulders, we suggest choosing more structured styles that add bulk to the upper part of the torso while simultaneously diverting attention from your midsection. Look for roped shoulders and bolder fabrics in
As for those with a stockier build, shirting should be classic or regular in style to ensure that you have room to move.
When discussing the style of jacket you’d like with your fitter, you may wish to add some visual bulk to your waist
If you have a lot of bulk around your thighs, you’re likely familiar with the struggle to find pants that fit. The beauty of made-to-measure suiting is that you can optimise trousers based on any of these idiosyncrasies and you don’t have to compromise. For those with muscular legs, our recommendation is to go for slim - not skinny - styles. This will ensure your legs appear stream lined but still offer you the movement required for day-to-day life.
Regardless of your body shape, Oscar Hunt strives for tailoring that is flattering and practical. Should you have any queries regarding the best style for you, our team of expert fitters