How is a suit jacket constructed? A guide to canvassing

No two made-to-measure suits are alike, and if you look below the surface, you’ll appreciate how a suit’s foundations can make all the difference. A great suit is built upon a jacket canvas, the reinforcement that gives it its shape and allows it to develop the hallmarks of its owner. It’s a tradition tailors have employed for centuries, honouring the garment from the inside out.

There are two types of canvassed suit jackets: floating and fused. A floating canvas is the superior choice; traditionally made from horsehair and wool, the two sides are stitched together then fixed to the seams of the jacket. With this construction the canvas floats and allows the outer cloth free movement while retaining its shape. On the other hand, fused construction is an interfacing fabric heat fused to the cloth. Prone to bubbling after repeated wear or dry cleaning, this style is a lower-cost alternative, and thus an inferior choice.

So why a floating-canvas construction? When creating a suit from a superior cloth it should be complemented by a comparable structure. A floating canvas conforms to your body and fits better over time. This means a stronger line through the jacket and a more refined shape, giving it greater grace when you move. This is important for a suit’s longevity: movement equates to reduced tension and a jacket that retains its shape. A fused canvas doesn’t provide the fluidity one would expect from a quality suit; it can be stiff through the lapels and lacks the drape of a floating canvas.

A canvassed jacket or canvassed coat is a nod to the fine art of tailoring and every Oscar Hunt suit is made with the strictest tradition. In the style of Savile Row tailors, each is crafted with a floating canvas so that you may treasure your suit for years to come. Designed to take your shape and give you the movement to excel throughout the day, our canvasses are laser cut to your precise measurements. From this foundation we create you perfect suit made from quality materials with expert knowledge. Ask your tailor to demonstrate the advantages of suit canvassing at your next appointment.