How to work with your tailor for the perfect trouser break

18 February 2017

"To pull off the perfect suit fit, you need the perfect break."

Whenever critics, journalists or fashion industry insiders speak about the perfect suiting fit, the conversation always includes talk about the break. What exactly is “the break”? It’s the crease that’s just above your trouser leg opening. You’ve seen the break before, even if you weren’t quite sure what to call it. When there’s no break, your trousers sit perfectly on top of your shoes. When it’s too aggressive, your trousers look as though they’re too long. To pull off the perfect suit fit, you need the perfect break. It’s difficult to create it on your own, but with your tailor’s help, the perfect break can become your reality.
Know Your Style
Your tailor’s ultimate goal is to make you look great and ensure your suit fits in every aspect, but he’s not a mind reader. In fact, he’s a classically trained craftsman who will work diligently to alter your suit without even the slightest direction. However, you need to think of your relationship with your tailor as a partnership. As with any successful partnership, there must be a two-way dialogue. The dialogue from your end should include details about your personal style. Your preference and your body type will play big roles in landing on the perfect break.
Modern guys who are less concerned with convention will opt for trousers with no break at all. It’s clean and cool but trousers with no break are a big faux pas for traditionalists. This look works best on slim guys. A slight break is for most guys and shows the world a clear understanding of fit. This break looks great on slim trousers.

No Break
Slight Break

The medium break is more of a classic style. If you’re a young guy who wants to pay homage to the great style of yesteryear, this is the way to do it. It’s a popular cut among more conservative men in business. A full break is the most classic of all the breaks. The full break looks great on guys who are older or heavyset. It also works on wide leg trousers.

Medium Break
Full Break

If you don’t have this conversation with your tailor, you’ll still walk away with a great pair of trousers. However, you could be a youthful, 30-year-old guy who ends up with a break better suited for your grandfather. With a little knowledge and conversation on the front end, you can work with your tailor to craft the perfect break, and in turn, the perfect suit.

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